Crocheted laces have a long history that begins in the early
1820’s, with the earliest known printed examples of crochet patterns from a
Dutch magazine called Penelope circa 1824.
Some years earlier there is a
descriptive narrative from 1812 that describes “shepherd’s knitting” as a
method of making garments from hand-spun wool. This yarn was likely made by
collecting tufts of wool that had snagged on bushes or might have been in the
animal’s sleeping area, combing it, and using the hands to pull the fibers
apart and twist them together. A hook made from a comb, or carved from a stick
would then be used to work the loops to form the fabric.
Crochet began to solidify itself as a ladies fine work in
the mid 1800’s, and purses and handbags were some of the first articles
crocheted with published patterns made regularly as a demonstration of one’s
fine workman ship and wealth. Stitched from silk, gold and linen threads, these
elegant satchels would speak volumes about a ladies status without her having
to utter a word.
Brittan's Queen Victoria pictured crocheting. She was also a prolific knitter and needle worker of all sorts. She taught her daughters to stitch as well |
Some of the most identifiable crocheted articles begin to
emerge in circa 1845 when Ursuline Nuns at the Presentation Convent in
Blackrock, County Cork Ireland. As the infamous potato famine left families
perishing, a school was established to teach the art of making crocheted lace
to help relieve economic distress.
Known as Irish Lace, this unique and often
easily identified lace technique is lavishly embellished with individually
crocheted flowers, roses and vines, on a crocheted lace mesh. Often these
pieces were made by many hands, as one person might make flowers, and another
leaves, and another would have the task of joining the piece work to create the
final product.
While the world of lace was revolutionized with the
development of Irish Lace, American Pioneers made crochet a useful pastime. The
adaptability and portability of crochet found it everywhere across the growing
nation. While sewing and knitting were constant necessities, crochet became a
beautiful pastime which allowed women mostly, of all ages, to create beautiful
items for no other purpose than to beautify an otherwise utilitarian
environment. Lovely window coverings and lace garment edgings were common in
women’s magazines.
Community knitting of socks became a Patriotic necessity
during any war, but in particular WWI we so even children pitching in, and
there is still quite a bit of evidence in antique propaganda that can be found.
But as the war came to its end, leisure work began to make its appearance once
more. Women had become more businesslike in their attire as materials and the
industry to make them were directed to supporting the war efforts. As lace making
began to make its appearance again, it’s output did not, and another element of
women’s fashion developed as these laces were more and more frequently applied
and made for undergarments. As the Roaring 20’s blossomed, and racy was
becoming more the fashion, enticed young women turned their hands toward the
making of scandalous “scanties”. Crochet designers published pattern books of
boudoir items that were delicate, lacy and feminine.
Crochet remained a pastime of creating finery, until the
rebellious children of the 1960’s picked up rope, yarn, wire and anything else
they could get a hook on and went on tangents that no one ever thought existed.
Men and women created baskets, turned Granny’s Square into and octagon, created
three dimensional shapes and utilized colors that had never been explored
before.
Our fashion pattern magazines and books now explore even further, and yet still the foundational beautification of domestic necessities still has a strong place in today’s crochet.
Our fashion pattern magazines and books now explore even further, and yet still the foundational beautification of domestic necessities still has a strong place in today’s crochet.
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